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Mucho Gracias, Colombia!

Mucho Gracias, Colombia!

On our last day in the rough port city of Buenaventura we decided to venture out of the small tourist center for a meal in the one restaurant that was recommended to us. We carefully made our way a few blocks from our hotel for some local seafood. The meal did not disappoint. As we navigated back to the hotel down the gritty streets we heard someone call our names. “Oliver, Jennifer!” We didn’t know anyone in this town and no one even knew we were here. Then, we noticed a you

Migrating South

Migrating South

We said our goodbyes to Alberto and his family in Coffee Country and headed off to the Pacific coast. The whales were still off the coast but would be migrating south in another week. If we wanted to see them we had to go now. We were just four hours away. We decided to become reacquainted with the Colombia bus system as flights to the area took twice as long. It would be difficult as we had gotten used to Alberto’s wonderful hospitality in chauffeuring us half way across the

Bats, Butterflies and Coffee Beans

Bats, Butterflies and Coffee Beans

Our trip to coffee country with Alberto and his family was off to a great start, despite the fifteen hour drive the previous day. The coffee plantation was beautiful. Our hacienda was a large suite of four rooms and a covered porch. There were two well appointed bedrooms, a spacious bathroom, and a room with large glass windows, rocking chairs, and a hammock. It was lovely. We were too tired to do anything but clean up and get in bed. But, just as we turned out the lights we

Captain Jesus and Alberto’s Family Vacation

Captain Jesus and Alberto’s Family Vacation

Excited to be going back to Bogota! Civilization! No rooster wake up calls and restaurants with menus! The departure time wasn’t printed on our airline tickets from La Macarena to Villavicencia, so we made our way to the office of the airline the night before to make sure that we knew what time to arrive for our flight out. When we walked into the lobby the lady behind the counter knew our names without us saying anything! I guess there aren’t that many non-spanish speaking A

Hey Macarena!

Hey Macarena!

The boat ride back from the hike to Macarena was touch and go. We drifted in the fast moving current unable to steer because the engine lost power. We neared the bank covered with vegetation teeming with wildlife, including huge tree climbing iguana with very sharp teeth. Finally, the boat operator got the motor working and we made it safely back to the dock. Carolina was waiting to greet us after the long day. We immediately asked about our itinerary for the next day. To our

Cano Crystales

Cano Crystales

No need for an alarm clock when the roosters and construction started around 6:30 am. We awoke to find the city was without power, it happens a few times a day. No problem, we opened our shutters and watched the neighbors chasing a horse out of their yard and a lady wielding a machete cutting the common area. Life starts early in the country. We dressed in our hiking gear, filled our water bottles and headed out to find breakfast and meet our group. After only one afternoon w

La Macarena - "You forgot your knife!"

La Macarena - "You forgot your knife!"

After our mountain hiking experience we needed a few days to rest and recuperate in Bogota (okay I actually needed to go eat again at my favorite Colombian chain restaurant, Crepes and Waffles). And, so after my fill of caramel, chocolate and ice cream, we were off to hike the jungles of central Colombia and see the beautiful colors of the river in Cano Cristales. I think we have mastered the Colombia bus system. We had no problems navigating our way out of Bogota to Villavic

The River of Five Colors

The River of Five Colors

Today we are leaving Bogota for a new adventure in Cano Cristales, a river in central Colombia. Also known as “the river of five colors” and “the liquid rainbow, Cano Cristales has been described as the most beautiful river in the world. Until just a few years ago, Cano Cristales was controlled by guerrilla forces and was not safe for tourists. Recently, the area has opened for tourism and we are excited to experience the natural beauty of the river that is like no other in t

Dry Clothes and Warm Hearts

Dry Clothes and Warm Hearts

None of us would get out of bed if we didn’t think that the day had the possibility of being better than the day before. It was with that thought that I crawled out of my warm sleeping bag and started packing our wet clothes. The roosters crowing, the dogs barking, and the sun light beaming into our room also helped. Even though it was 6:30 am, the children I had seen the night before were no longer in the house. I don’t know if they were out doing chores around the farm, or

Devil's Pulpit

Devil's Pulpit

We were in Colombian Andes and life was good. I was eager to hit the trail, so after adjusting hiking poles and packs we set off. I saw a sign with a trail map, but didn’t really see much of a trail. For the first 30 minutes we jumped from rock to rock, to avoid sinking into the rich deep mud. The trail was more of a creek bed or bog. I think the sheep and cows were as surprised as I was, when several times I came nose to nose with them as they blended into the shrubbery. As

Roughing It

Roughing It

The night before our hike I tossed and turned, I was anxious and excited about our trek. I never thought in my wildest dreams that I would be hiking in the Andes mountains. Yes, the same Andes from the terrifying movie Alive. The film that haunted my childhood. The 1974 film told the true story of a plane crash in the Andes and how the survivors resorted to cannabalism in order to survive. I was keeping Ol awake with all of my worries. Would we be able to keep up with Ivan an

Along for the Ride

Along for the Ride

We started our day running after a gentleman who took our bags and we ended our day chasing after another gentleman who rushed off with our bags. This is the third time on this trip that this has happened, either Colombians are very helpful or Ol is a terrible baggage handler! In Ol’s post he neglected to report that he had a difficult time with the treacherous roads and hair pin curves and sitting across from the sick woman did not help matters. At times, I was worried he wa

Bus rides, Buddhism, and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

Bus rides, Buddhism, and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

We awoke early in our hotel room in Villa de Leyva not knowing when or how we were getting to El Cocuy that day. Jennifer had made reservations but we didn’t know how to get there. We decided to pack early and walk to the bus station. We were told that busses left every fifteen minutes for the city of Tunja. We figured that if we left early enough that we could catch an early bus from Tunja to El Cocuy, although no one could tell us when that bus might be leaving. We were to

You Can’t Get There From Here

You Can’t Get There From Here

After two weeks enjoying the fast pace of the big city life in Bogota, we decided that it was time to get away from the hustle and bustle and head to the mountains for hiking and relaxation. Our destination would be El Cocuy, a Colombian national park located northeast of Bogota near the Venezuelan border. An area without internet, that is why you have not heard from us for a few days. Until recently, the area was a stronghold for the Colombian guerrillas (F.A.R.C.) engaged i

Mucho Gusto!

Mucho Gusto!

I knew today was going to be a great day when, just as we were being seated on the verandah of the chocolate museum for breakfast (yes, Oliver is never coming home) which overlooks a beautiful courtyard with a large Spanish moss draped oak, ‘The Saints, Go Marching In’, starts to play over the speaker. It was a day full of laughter, surprise, and a bit of New Orleans funk. In One Day: Only in Colombia could you wander through cobblestone streets shaded by colorful bougainvill

Villa de Leyva

Villa de Leyva

After two weeks in Bogota, it was time for some adventure. We decided to take a bus from Bogota to the old colonial city of Villa de Leyva, a four hour drive. And, public transportation in Colombia provided plenty of adventure. We successfully navigated the bus terminal despite a total absence of English and boarded the bus for the afternoon drive. No sooner than we had left the bus terminal, the bus driver pulled over on the side of the road and began picking up passengers s

Parks, Happy Hour, and Midnight Basketball

Parks, Happy Hour, and Midnight Basketball

b Wrapping up our time in Bogota, we have spent the last few days enjoying the city and preparing for the next leg of our trip. We have strolled beautiful city parks and enjoyed some great meals in sleek modern restaurants. We discovered why Bogota has the reputation as a European style capitol. Parque 93 is the gem of the Bogota park scene. It is a manicured green space filled with adults, children, and pets lounging, exercising and just enjoying the cool mountain air and be

Travel Now

Travel Now

As we sat in a wi-fi zone in La Candaleria, between museum visits, we met a kindred spirit. Jerry from California is the first American we have met in Bogota. He had just flown in from Quito, Ecuador after having visited Machu Picchu in Peru and the Galapagos Islands in Ecuador. After talking in English for a while we found ourselves going in the same direction and ended up visiting a museum together. We then headed to lunch where Jerry shared his story and graciously treated

Botero! Larger than Life

Botero! Larger than Life

We have spent the past two days visiting five of Bogota’s top museums and cultural attractions. Museo Botero, features 125 pieces of Colombian artist Fernando Botero and 85 pieces from world renowned artists such as Picasso, Degas, Chagall, Monet … it is one of the best museums Ol and I have ever visited, anywhere in the world. Botero donated the works, on the condition that they be shown free of charge. The collection is housed in a beautiful colonial mansion which was reno

Bogota's Art of Transportation

Bogota's Art of Transportation

Since today is laundry day, I will write about getting around Bogota and share some of Ol's photos of beautiful street art (graffiti) while Oliver navigates the Spanish washing machine. It is a bit confusing, the laundry that is, because it washes clothes and then turns into a dryer. Though the laundry is free, Oliver keeps running back to the room for more pesos. It appears that he is tipping the staff who insists on helping him, apparently in Colombia men do not do laundry

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